Ford 1.5L & 1.6L Crankshaft seal Tool

If you are replacing the front crankshaft seal on any 1.6 or 1.5 Ford engine (Escape/Kuga/Fusion/Mondeo/Fiesta ST) you will find that when sliding the seal over the crank's long nose, the oil pump drive will catch your seal and flip over the inner lip causing an oil leak worse than before you took it apart. This tool isn't a driver, it's a guide that loads the seal's lip and allows you to transfer it over that oil pump drive. See pics for a visual explanation and suggested print settings. USAGE: Note: If you are unfamiliar with this engine, make sure to understand the mechanical timing setup procedure and the implications of not aligning it prior to removing the crankshaft's bolt (NO KEYWAY FOR ALIGNMENT). You will need the Rotunda Crank holding pin, Camshaft VCT lock bracket, and Harmonic balancer CKP sensor alignment tool. Impossible without these tools, if the mechanical timing is out even a small amount, you will get a cam/crank correlation DTC. - Remove old front crankshaft seal 1. (If seal has a spring) Tightly pack inside of new seal with a temperature sensitive grease (trans assembly lube) 2. lightly grease crankshaft oil pump drive and the entire outside surface of this tool. 3. Starting at the small end of the tool, gently slide the new seal down to the large end. The seal lip has now folded back and given you a larger Inner Diameter to work with 4. Slide the seal/tool assembly down the crank until it touches the front of the engine (oil pump). 5. USING ONLY YOUR HANDS evenly push the seal, transferring it from the tool to the crankshaft. If it goes sideways, pull it back off and reset making sure to verify that the seal's inner spring hasn't dislodged (if equipped). 6. The seal is now positioned on the crank and past the lip it would normally catch on. Pushing with your hands, insert the seal into the oil pump housing until the outer edge of the seal is flush or slightly counter-sunk. Unlike most seals, this isn't hard to by hand. - Begin timing the engine THEN installing the crank pulley, making sure to use a new crank bolt (yield design). There are 2.stl files included but you only need one of them. I've been using V1 for a year successfully. I've just iterated on the design, V2 is a bit tougher to print and more fragile but fits closer to the oil pump making the transfer easier yet.